Tomorrow I return home! I have finally accepted that, after trying and failing to extend my stay here (it would have been far too expensive). I´m disappointed that I had to carry on the trip alone, but I met so many awesome people on this trip who kept me from being lonely.
I´m coming home with a new addiction: poker! I love it and I´m lucky in the game, so if any of you like to play, let´s do it. I´m not bringing home any souvenirs, nor did I get around to sending postcards, so sorry about that. It´s interesting to see the same souvenirs throughout central america, the only difference being the name of the country printed on it. So I´ll leave the Costa Rica magnets in the mercado... I´m also coming home with many scabs, bruises and mosquito bites, as well as two less toe nails. It turns out that I have no tolerance for itchy bites and I will scratch until my skin is raw and bleeding. There were a lot of sand flies and mosquitoes!
I already miss the sound of the sea and howler monkeys, and who knows when I´ll have hammock time again. I also got used to hearing people speak different languages, although I felt inferior because I am only fluent in English, with beginner Spanish skills. So I will learn a language when I´m home, or at least try. French would probably be the most useful for me in Canada, but I love the sound of German, so maybe I´ll see what I can do with it.
After leaving La Tortuga Feliz I travelled down the Caribbean coast to Puerto Viejo and Cahuita. Puerto Viejo is alive at night and Cahuita is the opposite. It must be low season for tourism, because both towns were quiet and there weren´t many backpackers around. That didn´t bother me, since I was able to spend time with some locals I met who completely changed my experience. I will also miss everything about the Caribbean! The food, the laid-back vibe, the smell of the sea, the rastas (other than those that wanted me to give them money, invest in a barber shop, or marry them). I was told that Canadian women must be drinking a different kind of juice, because the rastas will pay extra for us! Sweet. Maybe I should stay?
I really am a lucky girl, because when I was out at a bar for the night I realized I lost my key. I left and went back to the hotel to find the key in the lock of my door, and nothing was stolen from the room. Pura vida?
I like throwing in Spanish phrases you might not know. Sorry, it fits.
In Cahuita there was a beautiful national park where I saw many white headed monkeys, butterflies (possibly even the Julia butterfly, but she was too fast for me to confirm that). The swimming was the best I had since I was in Belize - warm, calm salt water.
So other than the scabs and such, I am coming home without being sick once (I´m not including stomach aches caused by gluttony/guacamole). The creepiest thing I saw was a wolf spider that crawled out of my pants when I was doing laundry. Thinking of it makes me feel sick. Look it up on Wikipedia and you will see what I mean. Those legs! So pointy and dangerous looking!
This is the end of the blog. I will see you all soon!
Monday, June 4, 2007
Saturday, May 12, 2007
La Tortuga Feliz
Our unofficial motto at La Tortuga Feliz is ¨save a turtle, kill a crab¨ because we pretty much have to kill any crab we see within 10 feet of the hatchery. I have issues with that role, but it´s suprising how easy it became. It´s just what we have to do, I guess.
So I am having an absolutely incredible time in Costa Rica. I feel like this is the first time in my life where I´ve actually had meaningful work to do! I don´t have much time in town today, so I´ll try to make this quick. And I must say, it´s really strange being in a city now where I cannot hear the sea crashing in the background.
First thing to talk about is of course the turtles. Right now it is the nesting season for leatherback turtles, and green sea turtle season starts in June so I may not see those. Buuut there have been a few earlybirds and I´m hopeful that I´ll see one before I leave.
The leatherbacks are beautiful and massive creatures! Dinosaurs even. The average shell length in 150 cm and is not scaly like others turtles, but leathery (go figure). My favorite part of the turtle is her eyes - they´re almost human like, but of course much bigger, and really dark.
There are 3 shifts I could be working: 1. housekeeping slash kitchen duty. I may get this once a week, but usually less. 2. hatchery - we dig nests and bury the eggs. When the eggs hatch we release the babies into the sea. My arms aren´t as long as the depth of the hole, so I end up doing one handed push ups while scooping out sand with the other. 3. beach patrol - a 4 hour walk on the beach searching for turtles that come on shore to lay eggs. When we find one, we take her eggs and walk back to the hatchery. The eggs are not light! On average there are maybe 80 fertile eggs and 20 infertile. All shifts are 4 hours long minimum and it is really hard work! I feel stronger every day because of it.
Food, of course I will talk about the food. Love it. There is variety but at the same time it is predictable. Each week the meals repeat with slight variations, but it is all so good that I´m entirely satisfied. I´m not even sick of the gallo pinto (rice and beans) yet! There are coconut trees, passion fruit, pineapple, avocados, lemons, mangoes and more growing on the project grounds. I´ve never ate so much coconut in my life. I just learned yesterday that scorpions live in coconut trees so I think I´ll get someone else to fetch them for me next time...
On the boat ride to the project on the first day we saw howler monkeys - what is such an elusive animal in other parts of Central America! They are easily spotted around here, and heard when dawn breaks. One of the shifts I work is 2-6 am and as soon as the sun starts to rise the sound of the monkeys begins and the birds start chirping. I saw one snake, but I think some survival mechanism kicked in because I saw it and kept walking. It was a blurred coil of green and brown. It moved so damn fast and apparently that´s a good thing because it was a venomous one!
The project is set on the Caribbean Sea, but unfortunately there are really strong riptides that I can feel even when in the shallows. If you get caught in one you will likely be pulled out to where the agressive bull sharks are. I saw some from the shore, not too far out actually, so I´´m pretty careful everytime I go in the sea.
About a week ago a 13 year old boy got killed by a crocodile in Tortguero National Park, which is up the coast from us, maybe about 2 hours. That story freaked me out and I don´t think I´ll go fishing/wading in the lagoons any longer! The last time the guys from the project went out they saw a croc in the spot they were just fishing at. I haven´t seen one yet, or a caiman, but I hope to see those when I take the kayak out next.
The people here are awesome, although a lot of people stay for only 2 weeks, and it´s hard to see them go. We are understaffed so that means work is a bit harder, but we still only work 4 hours a day. Shifts are scheduled 24 hours a day, but mostly at night. I don´t have a sleeping schedule of any kind right now, but that´s alright because hammocking has easily become one of my favorite pastimes.
I´m not sure what I´m missing, and I´m not going to edit this so surely there are loads of errors. Hopefully you can make sense of this.
This is one of the greatest experiences of my life! So glad I made it here.
So I am having an absolutely incredible time in Costa Rica. I feel like this is the first time in my life where I´ve actually had meaningful work to do! I don´t have much time in town today, so I´ll try to make this quick. And I must say, it´s really strange being in a city now where I cannot hear the sea crashing in the background.
First thing to talk about is of course the turtles. Right now it is the nesting season for leatherback turtles, and green sea turtle season starts in June so I may not see those. Buuut there have been a few earlybirds and I´m hopeful that I´ll see one before I leave.
The leatherbacks are beautiful and massive creatures! Dinosaurs even. The average shell length in 150 cm and is not scaly like others turtles, but leathery (go figure). My favorite part of the turtle is her eyes - they´re almost human like, but of course much bigger, and really dark.
There are 3 shifts I could be working: 1. housekeeping slash kitchen duty. I may get this once a week, but usually less. 2. hatchery - we dig nests and bury the eggs. When the eggs hatch we release the babies into the sea. My arms aren´t as long as the depth of the hole, so I end up doing one handed push ups while scooping out sand with the other. 3. beach patrol - a 4 hour walk on the beach searching for turtles that come on shore to lay eggs. When we find one, we take her eggs and walk back to the hatchery. The eggs are not light! On average there are maybe 80 fertile eggs and 20 infertile. All shifts are 4 hours long minimum and it is really hard work! I feel stronger every day because of it.
Food, of course I will talk about the food. Love it. There is variety but at the same time it is predictable. Each week the meals repeat with slight variations, but it is all so good that I´m entirely satisfied. I´m not even sick of the gallo pinto (rice and beans) yet! There are coconut trees, passion fruit, pineapple, avocados, lemons, mangoes and more growing on the project grounds. I´ve never ate so much coconut in my life. I just learned yesterday that scorpions live in coconut trees so I think I´ll get someone else to fetch them for me next time...
On the boat ride to the project on the first day we saw howler monkeys - what is such an elusive animal in other parts of Central America! They are easily spotted around here, and heard when dawn breaks. One of the shifts I work is 2-6 am and as soon as the sun starts to rise the sound of the monkeys begins and the birds start chirping. I saw one snake, but I think some survival mechanism kicked in because I saw it and kept walking. It was a blurred coil of green and brown. It moved so damn fast and apparently that´s a good thing because it was a venomous one!
The project is set on the Caribbean Sea, but unfortunately there are really strong riptides that I can feel even when in the shallows. If you get caught in one you will likely be pulled out to where the agressive bull sharks are. I saw some from the shore, not too far out actually, so I´´m pretty careful everytime I go in the sea.
About a week ago a 13 year old boy got killed by a crocodile in Tortguero National Park, which is up the coast from us, maybe about 2 hours. That story freaked me out and I don´t think I´ll go fishing/wading in the lagoons any longer! The last time the guys from the project went out they saw a croc in the spot they were just fishing at. I haven´t seen one yet, or a caiman, but I hope to see those when I take the kayak out next.
The people here are awesome, although a lot of people stay for only 2 weeks, and it´s hard to see them go. We are understaffed so that means work is a bit harder, but we still only work 4 hours a day. Shifts are scheduled 24 hours a day, but mostly at night. I don´t have a sleeping schedule of any kind right now, but that´s alright because hammocking has easily become one of my favorite pastimes.
I´m not sure what I´m missing, and I´m not going to edit this so surely there are loads of errors. Hopefully you can make sense of this.
This is one of the greatest experiences of my life! So glad I made it here.
Friday, April 20, 2007
I heart Nicarauga
So we are now down to one girl and a guy in Central America, travelling separately. I just happened to run into Mark at the hostel I´m at about 10 minutes ago. It´s unfortunate how this trip turned out, but at the same I think it was unavoidable. I hope that doesn´t sound crass.
I thought I´d update this blog one more time before I leave for Costa Rica. So here´s a quick description of what I´ve been doing with myself. And may I add that travelling as a single female creates a lot of unwanted attention from men! How can I politely say ¨I´d rather continue reading than talk to you¨?
Managua: The capital of Nicarauga. Everything is barred up, indoors and outdoors. Outside, on top of the bars you will see barbed wire. I was warned by the hotel owner and about 4 people on the street that I shouldn´t be walking alone at dark. I was back inside by 6:30 p.m. and ready to move on. Streets are unmarked as is the case in many Central American cities. That makes wandering around, searching for a destination infuriating at times. And it kinda causes some insecurities. Gave in and ate at freaking Burger King after getting lost, misguided by the Lonely Planet, and ripped off by a cab driver. Love the breakfast sausage.
Granada: I returned to Granada for a second time because I liked it and the hostel so much. Plus there isn´t much about Costa Rica that appeals to me or fits into my budget. Enjoying the comfort of being in a familiar place, free DVDs and a 10 minute phone call to Canada, as well as the pool. Granada is unbearably hot. Ate the best veggie burger of my life. Some attractive, maintained colonial buildings, and a lot of dilapidated structures. Took a day trip to Lake Pacoyo, which reportedly has the cleanest water in Nicarauga. Lazed around in an inner tube on the crystal clear water for most of the day.
Isla de Ometepe: Two islands were formed into one after an eruption of one of the (2) volcanoes created an isthmus between them. Having difficulties pronouncing isthmus. Travelled with a couple from London (UK), Nick and Jo, and two others from the UK, Julian and Keith, as well as another Julia and a teacher named Dave. Spent two nights in Merida. Hiked to San Ramon. Viewed spectacular waterfall cascading down a steep rock face. Falls provide drinking water for town, so no swimming allowed. Decided to ignore the ¨watch for falling rocks¨sign and stood under the falls for a minute. Was hit in head by a falling rock. Enjoyed the gluttony of having a breakfast and dinner buffet served at the hotel. Lake swimming was amazing, although thoughts of the fresh water sharks crossed my mind. Nearby island was made home to monkeys rescued from captivity. Monkeys are now dependant on the owners since the island doesn´t have food. Roaming cows, pigs, chickens and horses everywhere. One night on Santo Domingo beach. White sand, not at all busy. Splurged for a nice hotel. Wished I had much more time here. Truly is ¨an ecological jewel¨. Took small ferry back to mainland. Luckily did not puke.
San Juan del Sur: Still travelling with the group, minus Dave and other Julia. Formerly a town visited by rich Nicaraugans and few surfers. Now being developed by rich Nicaraugans, visited by many Gringos. Subway was put in town 8 months ago. A 20 story hotel was just approved for construction. Other than that, the beach was good, water cool (Pacific) and salty so floating was not an issue. Visited nearby Playa Majagual and Maderas. Gorgeous area. Wish I was a geologist so I could describe the cliffs and eroded rocks surrounding the shore. Accomodations were pricey, the budget place was booked, so it became a day trip. Splurged and bought shrimp and tried some lobster. Both were incredible. Not much to eat but seafood.
And here I am in Granada. The trip to San Jose is about 8 hours long, so I plan to leave early tomorrow morning for the big city. Start volunteering on the 23rd.
I thought I´d update this blog one more time before I leave for Costa Rica. So here´s a quick description of what I´ve been doing with myself. And may I add that travelling as a single female creates a lot of unwanted attention from men! How can I politely say ¨I´d rather continue reading than talk to you¨?
Managua: The capital of Nicarauga. Everything is barred up, indoors and outdoors. Outside, on top of the bars you will see barbed wire. I was warned by the hotel owner and about 4 people on the street that I shouldn´t be walking alone at dark. I was back inside by 6:30 p.m. and ready to move on. Streets are unmarked as is the case in many Central American cities. That makes wandering around, searching for a destination infuriating at times. And it kinda causes some insecurities. Gave in and ate at freaking Burger King after getting lost, misguided by the Lonely Planet, and ripped off by a cab driver. Love the breakfast sausage.
Granada: I returned to Granada for a second time because I liked it and the hostel so much. Plus there isn´t much about Costa Rica that appeals to me or fits into my budget. Enjoying the comfort of being in a familiar place, free DVDs and a 10 minute phone call to Canada, as well as the pool. Granada is unbearably hot. Ate the best veggie burger of my life. Some attractive, maintained colonial buildings, and a lot of dilapidated structures. Took a day trip to Lake Pacoyo, which reportedly has the cleanest water in Nicarauga. Lazed around in an inner tube on the crystal clear water for most of the day.
Isla de Ometepe: Two islands were formed into one after an eruption of one of the (2) volcanoes created an isthmus between them. Having difficulties pronouncing isthmus. Travelled with a couple from London (UK), Nick and Jo, and two others from the UK, Julian and Keith, as well as another Julia and a teacher named Dave. Spent two nights in Merida. Hiked to San Ramon. Viewed spectacular waterfall cascading down a steep rock face. Falls provide drinking water for town, so no swimming allowed. Decided to ignore the ¨watch for falling rocks¨sign and stood under the falls for a minute. Was hit in head by a falling rock. Enjoyed the gluttony of having a breakfast and dinner buffet served at the hotel. Lake swimming was amazing, although thoughts of the fresh water sharks crossed my mind. Nearby island was made home to monkeys rescued from captivity. Monkeys are now dependant on the owners since the island doesn´t have food. Roaming cows, pigs, chickens and horses everywhere. One night on Santo Domingo beach. White sand, not at all busy. Splurged for a nice hotel. Wished I had much more time here. Truly is ¨an ecological jewel¨. Took small ferry back to mainland. Luckily did not puke.
San Juan del Sur: Still travelling with the group, minus Dave and other Julia. Formerly a town visited by rich Nicaraugans and few surfers. Now being developed by rich Nicaraugans, visited by many Gringos. Subway was put in town 8 months ago. A 20 story hotel was just approved for construction. Other than that, the beach was good, water cool (Pacific) and salty so floating was not an issue. Visited nearby Playa Majagual and Maderas. Gorgeous area. Wish I was a geologist so I could describe the cliffs and eroded rocks surrounding the shore. Accomodations were pricey, the budget place was booked, so it became a day trip. Splurged and bought shrimp and tried some lobster. Both were incredible. Not much to eat but seafood.
And here I am in Granada. The trip to San Jose is about 8 hours long, so I plan to leave early tomorrow morning for the big city. Start volunteering on the 23rd.
Friday, April 6, 2007
The best hostel in Honduras?
We haven´t talked about the hostel we´re staying at in Omoa yet - Roli´s Place. It definitely deserves a mention.
In the Lonely Planet guide is it touted as the best hostel in Honduras, or something along those lines. It seems that this praise has gone straight to Roli´s head.
After dropping our bags off in the room it was necessary to walk around the place to read the signs posted around, some with kinda contradictory rules. There are rules for everything.
My favorite sign is basically an introduction to Roli. He lists of all of the wonderful things he is doing to keep the hostel as the best in Honduras. His job is to keep the place ¨extra special¨, and while doing his work he does not have time to answer outlandish questions from his guests! Apparently every night as he puts out the mosquito coils for us he is bombarded with questions such as: ¨you must be Roli?¨, ¨where is the bus to bla, bla, blah?¨, ¨do you know where I can find a decent restaurant?¨ and so on.
All questions are to be directed to Nellya - that's what she is paid for! He makes a comment about how people ignore her because she doesn't speak English, and because she looks young. Is that possibly a generalization?
And by the way, he hasn't been doing his job with the mosquito coils - I counted over 100 bites below my knees. I refuse to use the DEET spray I brought with me unless I'm in an area that's puts me at risk for malaria. Anyway...
So the highlight of this story is right here: this one traveller was staying at Roli's for a couple nights and then decided to camp out on the beach. He came by one night with a guest who stopped in to get something from the room. He was there for about 30 seconds before Roli came out, accused him of abusing his hospitality, hit him with a flashlight, grabbed his arm and pulled him off the property. I hung out with this guy - he was nowhere close to being a nuisance.
I should've just copied that sign out for you guys. Honestly, it cracks me up every time I look at it.
- Julia
In the Lonely Planet guide is it touted as the best hostel in Honduras, or something along those lines. It seems that this praise has gone straight to Roli´s head.
After dropping our bags off in the room it was necessary to walk around the place to read the signs posted around, some with kinda contradictory rules. There are rules for everything.
My favorite sign is basically an introduction to Roli. He lists of all of the wonderful things he is doing to keep the hostel as the best in Honduras. His job is to keep the place ¨extra special¨, and while doing his work he does not have time to answer outlandish questions from his guests! Apparently every night as he puts out the mosquito coils for us he is bombarded with questions such as: ¨you must be Roli?¨, ¨where is the bus to bla, bla, blah?¨, ¨do you know where I can find a decent restaurant?¨ and so on.
All questions are to be directed to Nellya - that's what she is paid for! He makes a comment about how people ignore her because she doesn't speak English, and because she looks young. Is that possibly a generalization?
And by the way, he hasn't been doing his job with the mosquito coils - I counted over 100 bites below my knees. I refuse to use the DEET spray I brought with me unless I'm in an area that's puts me at risk for malaria. Anyway...
So the highlight of this story is right here: this one traveller was staying at Roli's for a couple nights and then decided to camp out on the beach. He came by one night with a guest who stopped in to get something from the room. He was there for about 30 seconds before Roli came out, accused him of abusing his hospitality, hit him with a flashlight, grabbed his arm and pulled him off the property. I hung out with this guy - he was nowhere close to being a nuisance.
I should've just copied that sign out for you guys. Honestly, it cracks me up every time I look at it.
- Julia
Thursday, April 5, 2007
Jelly Fish
I was going to wait for Julia to do this blog, but it is hot outside and I am looking for reasons to stay in the blissful A/C. So here I am.
We have been in Omoa for...I dunno, 6 days maybe and I pretty much love it here. I have yet to determine if it is the place or the fact that I am once again on the Caribbean sea. I suspect that any town on the Caribbean coast I would be in love with, but that is neither here nor there. Today I am going to talk to you about the sea itself, not my love of it.
The first two days were pure bliss in the warm blue water of the sea. Julia and I would go to the beach simply to float in the water and let the sun beat down on us. The sea is particularly thrilling to Julia as the poor girl is cursed with the inability to float in fresh water. Seeing her newly bouyant body in the water is peculiar at times as she has yet to master the art of relaxation and I can often here her momentary panic and feel the usually calm water ripple with her jerky and uncoordinated movements as she struggles to remain afloat. Forgetting of course that she was just floating a brief moment ago and there is no need for the panic...but I digress.
We had just gotten used to our daily water routine of doing virtually nothing but play around in the salty bathwater when it was brought to our visual attention that we had some friends in the form of jelly fish. Not one or two, because of course jelly fish swim in schools, but a dozen of them or so in the immediate vicinity of us. I dont know how many there were in total as for the duration of their visit (about 2 days) we kept our frolicking to the warm shallow waters instead of the cool depths just slightly farther out. It was interesting the watch these globes of jelli (say it like its spelled. Its funnier that way. Jell-I) float about the water without a direction or purpose. However no matter where we went they seemed highly attracted to us and would change course to better follow our retreat. They didnt effect our stay in the sea too much however and for the couple days they were there we made a game of finding them and identifying the different colours. People standing on the peer and gazing into the water had a better view and could see just how many there were, but we felt that our swimming would stop entirely if we knew the truth and we continued to delude ourselves that there were only a bakers dozen or so. I should also mention that Julia had a momentary brush with death (as she likes to think of it) as a jelly fish collided with her clothed side and they made quick but definite contact with each other. Wow.
On day two of our visitation to the Jelli we discovered that there was a poor deceased soul floating in the water. The underneath part had been removed (I dont know how or why) and just the jelly bowl was floating along in the water. Julia picked it up and placed it on her head (what is the name for the Jewish hat thingy? It looked a lil like that). We spent a few minutes touching it and feeling the jelly. It is a rather thick membrane for those that dont know. And while it is soft, and in fact jelly-like the membrane is about an inch to an inch and a half thick making it difficult to penetrate without a sharp object on hand. Julia tired of the bowl quickly and left me to play with it. We had already filled it with water and worn it on our heads...there didnt seem to be much else to do with it, so I hurled it at Julia. It did not hit her, but she was vex nonetheless and picked it up to launch at me. This lasted for a few moments until we realized that we were essentially throwing a dead carcass at each other, and the playing stopped.
We searched but could not find one jelly fish. Our Jelli friends had left to go haunt another beach town Im sure and Julia and I have gone back to our daily frolicking. They will be missed.
Janelle
We have been in Omoa for...I dunno, 6 days maybe and I pretty much love it here. I have yet to determine if it is the place or the fact that I am once again on the Caribbean sea. I suspect that any town on the Caribbean coast I would be in love with, but that is neither here nor there. Today I am going to talk to you about the sea itself, not my love of it.
The first two days were pure bliss in the warm blue water of the sea. Julia and I would go to the beach simply to float in the water and let the sun beat down on us. The sea is particularly thrilling to Julia as the poor girl is cursed with the inability to float in fresh water. Seeing her newly bouyant body in the water is peculiar at times as she has yet to master the art of relaxation and I can often here her momentary panic and feel the usually calm water ripple with her jerky and uncoordinated movements as she struggles to remain afloat. Forgetting of course that she was just floating a brief moment ago and there is no need for the panic...but I digress.
We had just gotten used to our daily water routine of doing virtually nothing but play around in the salty bathwater when it was brought to our visual attention that we had some friends in the form of jelly fish. Not one or two, because of course jelly fish swim in schools, but a dozen of them or so in the immediate vicinity of us. I dont know how many there were in total as for the duration of their visit (about 2 days) we kept our frolicking to the warm shallow waters instead of the cool depths just slightly farther out. It was interesting the watch these globes of jelli (say it like its spelled. Its funnier that way. Jell-I) float about the water without a direction or purpose. However no matter where we went they seemed highly attracted to us and would change course to better follow our retreat. They didnt effect our stay in the sea too much however and for the couple days they were there we made a game of finding them and identifying the different colours. People standing on the peer and gazing into the water had a better view and could see just how many there were, but we felt that our swimming would stop entirely if we knew the truth and we continued to delude ourselves that there were only a bakers dozen or so. I should also mention that Julia had a momentary brush with death (as she likes to think of it) as a jelly fish collided with her clothed side and they made quick but definite contact with each other. Wow.
On day two of our visitation to the Jelli we discovered that there was a poor deceased soul floating in the water. The underneath part had been removed (I dont know how or why) and just the jelly bowl was floating along in the water. Julia picked it up and placed it on her head (what is the name for the Jewish hat thingy? It looked a lil like that). We spent a few minutes touching it and feeling the jelly. It is a rather thick membrane for those that dont know. And while it is soft, and in fact jelly-like the membrane is about an inch to an inch and a half thick making it difficult to penetrate without a sharp object on hand. Julia tired of the bowl quickly and left me to play with it. We had already filled it with water and worn it on our heads...there didnt seem to be much else to do with it, so I hurled it at Julia. It did not hit her, but she was vex nonetheless and picked it up to launch at me. This lasted for a few moments until we realized that we were essentially throwing a dead carcass at each other, and the playing stopped.
We searched but could not find one jelly fish. Our Jelli friends had left to go haunt another beach town Im sure and Julia and I have gone back to our daily frolicking. They will be missed.
Janelle
Saturday, March 31, 2007
Gracias, Honduras. Parque Celaque
Sooo Julia and I went to Parque Celaque to give the hiking thing another try for me. There is a beautiful cloud forest and this National park has the highest peak in Honduras. We probably should have started with something smaller, but whatever.
Thank God we talked to a couple the day before leaving who had just done and told us it was very steep. It was in fact a vertical incline to the camp we were going to try to get to. We decided based on their story to camp at the visitors center at the base of the trail.
Our driver picked us up at 7am to take us to the park. We felt all local and cool sitting in the back of a pickup cruising in the coutryside, and as soon I get around to posting more pics, you will see how gorgeous our surrounding were. ANYWAY. We dropped our pack off at the visitors center which was a 45 minute uphill walk from the gate (tiring) and started our trek the cloud forest. Now, while I did much better this time, and last much longer physically, at around the same altitude as volcan Pacaya I began to feel dizzy and light headed, and couldnt continue. I think I have a real problem with altitude. It also didnt help that my allergies decided to kick me in the face while we were up there.
Julia wants me to tell you that she did not make me walk down alone, she came with me even when I told her she could go on. Good pal.
Back at the bottom we went to Doña Alejandrinas for dinner. This woman has been living on the mountain since before it was a National park. She has been there for over 54 years and can cook better than any restaurant we have been in since starting this trip. She served up two types of tortillas, black beans, refried beans, potatoes, rice with vegetables and the best damned coffee. Mmmm!
She and her son live in a wood shack with no electricity or running water. They cook over a woodfire, and by all North American standards, are literally dirt poor. Being there and eating two meals courtesy of them we were transported to a time long since forgotten. Eating her simple and delicious dinner over candlelight we could hear Pumas meowing in the distance, fireflies dancing and the dogs waited patiently at our feet for scraps. Peace.
Doña Alejandrina was a wonderfully sweet old woman, with sparkling eyes and big smiles and she and her son lived simply and most importantly they are very happy. I have to say that I was envious and humbled by their simple existance and wished that I could speak better Spanish because I am sure that woman had so much to teach. I wished that I could go back and sit with her. I tried to go and take her picture before we left but she had left for the woods, and I was unable to. :(
Now the scary part...We spent the night in the camp that by my account was infested with spiders. Julia may disagree but she is not as observant to these things as I. There were these rather large brown ones that had sharp looking legs and glittery eyes. So whenever I scoured the room with my headlamp the light would reflect off of their eyes and I could see them all glittering back at me. I had visions of them crawling on me in my sleep and biting my sweet, tender flesh...I really wanted to vomit and did not sleep very well at all that night.
All in all, it was really unique and educational experience, and certainly one that I will not forget!
Thank God we talked to a couple the day before leaving who had just done and told us it was very steep. It was in fact a vertical incline to the camp we were going to try to get to. We decided based on their story to camp at the visitors center at the base of the trail.
Our driver picked us up at 7am to take us to the park. We felt all local and cool sitting in the back of a pickup cruising in the coutryside, and as soon I get around to posting more pics, you will see how gorgeous our surrounding were. ANYWAY. We dropped our pack off at the visitors center which was a 45 minute uphill walk from the gate (tiring) and started our trek the cloud forest. Now, while I did much better this time, and last much longer physically, at around the same altitude as volcan Pacaya I began to feel dizzy and light headed, and couldnt continue. I think I have a real problem with altitude. It also didnt help that my allergies decided to kick me in the face while we were up there.
Julia wants me to tell you that she did not make me walk down alone, she came with me even when I told her she could go on. Good pal.
Back at the bottom we went to Doña Alejandrinas for dinner. This woman has been living on the mountain since before it was a National park. She has been there for over 54 years and can cook better than any restaurant we have been in since starting this trip. She served up two types of tortillas, black beans, refried beans, potatoes, rice with vegetables and the best damned coffee. Mmmm!
She and her son live in a wood shack with no electricity or running water. They cook over a woodfire, and by all North American standards, are literally dirt poor. Being there and eating two meals courtesy of them we were transported to a time long since forgotten. Eating her simple and delicious dinner over candlelight we could hear Pumas meowing in the distance, fireflies dancing and the dogs waited patiently at our feet for scraps. Peace.
Doña Alejandrina was a wonderfully sweet old woman, with sparkling eyes and big smiles and she and her son lived simply and most importantly they are very happy. I have to say that I was envious and humbled by their simple existance and wished that I could speak better Spanish because I am sure that woman had so much to teach. I wished that I could go back and sit with her. I tried to go and take her picture before we left but she had left for the woods, and I was unable to. :(
Now the scary part...We spent the night in the camp that by my account was infested with spiders. Julia may disagree but she is not as observant to these things as I. There were these rather large brown ones that had sharp looking legs and glittery eyes. So whenever I scoured the room with my headlamp the light would reflect off of their eyes and I could see them all glittering back at me. I had visions of them crawling on me in my sleep and biting my sweet, tender flesh...I really wanted to vomit and did not sleep very well at all that night.
All in all, it was really unique and educational experience, and certainly one that I will not forget!
Gracias, Honduras. The hot springs
When we first arrived to Gracias, I was ready to start crying. From first appearance it is a shit town, with nothing to do, and no where to go, and the locals couldnt even be bothered to smile at us. Not at all what the guide book made us think when we would find. However, this firt impression did turn out to be inaccurate. Good.
We realized soon in that the reason for the locals not being willing to help us was not because they had a thing against Gringos, but because they spoke a dialect of Spanish that we were not familiar with and thus communication was even more hindered. Super.
The town had dirt roads and no vegetarian options to speak of for restaurant selection with the exception of one place which was situated on a hill, and managed by a dutch lady who truly did not want to help us and guarded by rabid dogs who tried to take a chunk out of my leg one afternoon on the way to lunch. The town was cute though... in a way.
One afernoon Julia and I made the 4km trek to nearby hotspings ina an attempt to do some swimming. The hot springs, while still man made, were 1 million times better than the ones at Copan. There were multiple pools of varying depths and temperatures. We first chose the last one as it was unoccupied and was big enough to paddle around in.
I would say a good 3 minutes after getting in the pool two local men came over and tried to sweet talk us. They wanted to take us dancing and they wanted our email addresses (shcoker, they never did email us). The cute and VERY young looking one was keen on Julia, while the older one and unfortunetly much less attractive one was so keen on me he tried to pull me out of the pool and take me with him.
Sadly, as my man did not even speak a single word of English, and my Spanish is poor at best I could not even tell him that our relationship would never work as I have a distinct policy against dating anyone who spends more time looking at my breasts than my face or any other part of my body for that matter. I do have to give him props though as he paid a meriachi (sp) band to come over and serenade us, he even sang to me.
Julias manboy was also out of luck as well as she has a distinct policy against dating anyone who may not even be legal enough to vote. It was still flattering though, and they will remain in our thoughts for days to come I am sure.
Janelle
We realized soon in that the reason for the locals not being willing to help us was not because they had a thing against Gringos, but because they spoke a dialect of Spanish that we were not familiar with and thus communication was even more hindered. Super.
The town had dirt roads and no vegetarian options to speak of for restaurant selection with the exception of one place which was situated on a hill, and managed by a dutch lady who truly did not want to help us and guarded by rabid dogs who tried to take a chunk out of my leg one afternoon on the way to lunch. The town was cute though... in a way.
One afernoon Julia and I made the 4km trek to nearby hotspings ina an attempt to do some swimming. The hot springs, while still man made, were 1 million times better than the ones at Copan. There were multiple pools of varying depths and temperatures. We first chose the last one as it was unoccupied and was big enough to paddle around in.
I would say a good 3 minutes after getting in the pool two local men came over and tried to sweet talk us. They wanted to take us dancing and they wanted our email addresses (shcoker, they never did email us). The cute and VERY young looking one was keen on Julia, while the older one and unfortunetly much less attractive one was so keen on me he tried to pull me out of the pool and take me with him.
Sadly, as my man did not even speak a single word of English, and my Spanish is poor at best I could not even tell him that our relationship would never work as I have a distinct policy against dating anyone who spends more time looking at my breasts than my face or any other part of my body for that matter. I do have to give him props though as he paid a meriachi (sp) band to come over and serenade us, he even sang to me.
Julias manboy was also out of luck as well as she has a distinct policy against dating anyone who may not even be legal enough to vote. It was still flattering though, and they will remain in our thoughts for days to come I am sure.
Janelle
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