Hola Amigos!

Follow us on our trip to Central America!

Saturday, March 31, 2007

Gracias, Honduras. Parque Celaque

Sooo Julia and I went to Parque Celaque to give the hiking thing another try for me. There is a beautiful cloud forest and this National park has the highest peak in Honduras. We probably should have started with something smaller, but whatever.

Thank God we talked to a couple the day before leaving who had just done and told us it was very steep. It was in fact a vertical incline to the camp we were going to try to get to. We decided based on their story to camp at the visitors center at the base of the trail.

Our driver picked us up at 7am to take us to the park. We felt all local and cool sitting in the back of a pickup cruising in the coutryside, and as soon I get around to posting more pics, you will see how gorgeous our surrounding were. ANYWAY. We dropped our pack off at the visitors center which was a 45 minute uphill walk from the gate (tiring) and started our trek the cloud forest. Now, while I did much better this time, and last much longer physically, at around the same altitude as volcan Pacaya I began to feel dizzy and light headed, and couldnt continue. I think I have a real problem with altitude. It also didnt help that my allergies decided to kick me in the face while we were up there.

Julia wants me to tell you that she did not make me walk down alone, she came with me even when I told her she could go on. Good pal.

Back at the bottom we went to Doña Alejandrinas for dinner. This woman has been living on the mountain since before it was a National park. She has been there for over 54 years and can cook better than any restaurant we have been in since starting this trip. She served up two types of tortillas, black beans, refried beans, potatoes, rice with vegetables and the best damned coffee. Mmmm!

She and her son live in a wood shack with no electricity or running water. They cook over a woodfire, and by all North American standards, are literally dirt poor. Being there and eating two meals courtesy of them we were transported to a time long since forgotten. Eating her simple and delicious dinner over candlelight we could hear Pumas meowing in the distance, fireflies dancing and the dogs waited patiently at our feet for scraps. Peace.

Doña Alejandrina was a wonderfully sweet old woman, with sparkling eyes and big smiles and she and her son lived simply and most importantly they are very happy. I have to say that I was envious and humbled by their simple existance and wished that I could speak better Spanish because I am sure that woman had so much to teach. I wished that I could go back and sit with her. I tried to go and take her picture before we left but she had left for the woods, and I was unable to. :(

Now the scary part...We spent the night in the camp that by my account was infested with spiders. Julia may disagree but she is not as observant to these things as I. There were these rather large brown ones that had sharp looking legs and glittery eyes. So whenever I scoured the room with my headlamp the light would reflect off of their eyes and I could see them all glittering back at me. I had visions of them crawling on me in my sleep and biting my sweet, tender flesh...I really wanted to vomit and did not sleep very well at all that night.

All in all, it was really unique and educational experience, and certainly one that I will not forget!

Gracias, Honduras. The hot springs

When we first arrived to Gracias, I was ready to start crying. From first appearance it is a shit town, with nothing to do, and no where to go, and the locals couldnt even be bothered to smile at us. Not at all what the guide book made us think when we would find. However, this firt impression did turn out to be inaccurate. Good.

We realized soon in that the reason for the locals not being willing to help us was not because they had a thing against Gringos, but because they spoke a dialect of Spanish that we were not familiar with and thus communication was even more hindered. Super.

The town had dirt roads and no vegetarian options to speak of for restaurant selection with the exception of one place which was situated on a hill, and managed by a dutch lady who truly did not want to help us and guarded by rabid dogs who tried to take a chunk out of my leg one afternoon on the way to lunch. The town was cute though... in a way.

One afernoon Julia and I made the 4km trek to nearby hotspings ina an attempt to do some swimming. The hot springs, while still man made, were 1 million times better than the ones at Copan. There were multiple pools of varying depths and temperatures. We first chose the last one as it was unoccupied and was big enough to paddle around in.

I would say a good 3 minutes after getting in the pool two local men came over and tried to sweet talk us. They wanted to take us dancing and they wanted our email addresses (shcoker, they never did email us). The cute and VERY young looking one was keen on Julia, while the older one and unfortunetly much less attractive one was so keen on me he tried to pull me out of the pool and take me with him.

Sadly, as my man did not even speak a single word of English, and my Spanish is poor at best I could not even tell him that our relationship would never work as I have a distinct policy against dating anyone who spends more time looking at my breasts than my face or any other part of my body for that matter. I do have to give him props though as he paid a meriachi (sp) band to come over and serenade us, he even sang to me.

Julias manboy was also out of luck as well as she has a distinct policy against dating anyone who may not even be legal enough to vote. It was still flattering though, and they will remain in our thoughts for days to come I am sure.

Janelle

Monday, March 26, 2007

sneaky Canadians

One of the things I was looking forward to doing on this trip, was swimming in natural hot springs. I have, three times so far, but the first was definitely more appealing than the others, and most importantly - natural!

In Copan, we got a group of people together and sat on a bus for one hour to reach the hot springs 24 km out of town. The roads were winding, and the views spectacular - I love the landscape of Honduras - incredibly lush, rolling mountains, stray cows and horses roaming everywhere.

So we arrived at the hot springs to discover that what was accessible for $1 were two small spring-fed concrete pools (picture a public pool filled with warm water), and a river with run-off from the natural spring, that wasn't deep enough to cover your legs if you sat in it. It was more than disappointing, but we weren't going to pay the $10 (seriously, that is a lot of money for this trip) to access the natural springs, even if it came with a free massage.

Instead we decided to sneak in. I saw a path on one side of the river, guarded by a local wielding a machete. He agreed that the trail was public, and would lead to the ¨grande¨ hot springs. We followed the trail, which led where we expected it to, except the springs were guarded by security. He asked for our tickets, which we conveniently left by the other pools. He bought it, and we were in. Way too easy...

We made it down to a spring-fed jacuzzi (yeah, still not the natural wonder we were expecting, but it was a step up) and sat for about 30 seconds. The guard came down and told us that he'd meet us on the other side of the path after we were done, to see our tickets. We agreed, because we didn't know what else to say. He then told us the ticket should be yellow, and should have cost 10 times what we paid. ¨What?¨

So, we left the jacuzzi and followed the man up to a deck, where he called another guard who was to meet us and escort us back. I apologized and explained that the local dude told us the trail was public, and that we didn't know we needed a special ticket....his response? ¨lo siento? (I'm sorry?) yeah, right, no lo siento, you guys are sneaky! well, enjoy the view¨. Luckily he found it pretty amusing, and just asked to be careful when exiting the trail, so that other vistors wouldn't try to get up there too.

We are now in Gracias, Honduras, and one of the highlights of the area are hot springs an hour walk out of town. The place is a popular local hang-out, and basically another set of spring-fed pools. They were more appealing, given that the pools were made of rock, and were surrounded by trees. Janelle might have more to say about our adventures with the locals that day. For now, I have to go.

Actually, I will add one more thing. Janelle and I have parted ways with Mark, at least for the time being. We are now enjoying our vacation, conflict-free.

- Julia

Thursday, March 22, 2007

white hot

We arrived in Antigua after a bit of a nerve wracking drive through the mountains. I think it has been mentioned already that drivers love to pass the vehicle in front, no matter if it means driving into oncoming traffic, or in this case, on a narrow mountain road. I also loved the wide switchback turns. It was a gamble each time - would there be another car in the opposing lane of traffic? Luckily for us, there never was.

So we made it to Antigua, and again were instantly surrounded by locals who tried to direct us to a hostel they were associated with. We found a pretty decent hostel with free breakfast! Yes, that is a wonderful bonus - fresh fruit, pastries and coffee, all for free!

We spent some time wandering around town, looking at church ruins and markets, and ate a lot of meals at an obviously Western-owned bagel restaurant. The ruins were pretty beautiful, if you´re attracted to dilapitated buildings as I am. There was an earthquake years ago which devastated the town, and some time after that the captial moved to Guatemala City, and so did the funding to cover the maintenance/reconstruction of the churches. Fine with me.

For me, the highlight of the trip to Antigua was climbing Volcan Pacaya. Janelle may disagree, as she had a panic attack about a quarter way up, and had to ride a horse the rest of the way. And then she kind of got stranded near the top, alone, for over an hour. By the way, you aren´t supposed to climb without a guide because of the risks for robbery and rape. But she was alright, and I will continue my story..

I won´t lie, it was an arduous climb. When we got off of the bus local kids offered us walking sticks, and it turned out to be an excellent companion. Even with that, we climbed on very ashy terrain, which has the texture of sand, right? So it was tough. Plus, as Mark pointed out to me, my teeth turned a lovely shade of brown from breathing in so much of it.

The trek was well worth it. We made it to a clearing near the top in time for the sunset - beautiful, albeit a bit cloudy. Pacaya is an active volcano, so we could see and hear the flowing lava. We hiked across a lava field - each step was crucial! The lava rock was sharp, and the morbid side of me couldn´t help but think what would happen if the group fell down like dominoes. That´d be a bloody mess. But again, we all made it to the top and back. By the time we started to descend the volcano, it was dark. I brought my trusty head lamp, but with the group of us constantly kicking up ash in the air, visibility was low.

It was definitely the most incredible experience on this trip so far. I didn´t get as close to the laval as others did, but it was still amazing. Areas of the field were white hot, and could be ignited if you tried to stir it up. The temperature went from cold to ridiculously hot in a matter of 25 feet. It was insane.

We are now in Honduras. We decided to bypass El Salvador, at least for now, because of the logistics of it all. Tomorrow we are heading to the Copan ruins. I´m sure someone else up update this soon, with a story about our hot springs adventure today. Hope you´re all having fun at home.

-Julia

Tuesday, March 20, 2007

San Pedro, Guatemala

Today I am going to tell you about San Pedro, Guatemala.

When we first got into the town all we could smell was the overpowering odour of olives, which we later found out to be coffee beans drying. We loved it on sight. The food there was great and it is the cheapest place to stay in all of Guatemala. We could get a Foccacia for 5Q (about $.75) and our room was 20Q ($2.50) per person/ night. Our hotel overlooked the lake and we had a dock which I used to tan. :) We found a few really delicious places to eat, and met some cool people.

Our first day there we were on a mission to find John, the friend of Michelle. We asked a random waiter at The Alegre pub, who knew immediatly of Michelle and John. He sent us over to Freedom where they informed us that John and Michelle had moved to Rick's place on San Marcos. It was like we had just missed her. :)

We met a lovely girl named Megan with whom we ended up spending lots of time with, talking about food and such. Poor girl must have thought we were ill because Julia and I were always in bed by 10:00 at the latest, and couldnt even manage to stay out and drink on St. Patty's Day.

The town was quite lovely, and Julia fell in love with a little blind street dog who cowered whenever she went near him. She spent quite a bit of time feeding this dog some leftover bread she had. My only complaint about this place was that to leave our road and go anywhere else in the town...like the bank, we had to go uphill. A tall hill that was at least on a 60 degree angle. Ugh!

Oh yeah, back to John. We took the boat to San Marcos and when we got there we ran into 2 girls who also lived at Rick's place who informed us that John would not be back until Saturday...we never did meet this John. He is like Polkaroo...

I think that is all I have to say about that. I have twisted Julia's arm into telling you about Antigua.

bye bye

Janelle

Yo

Hookay...

First of all yes we are homesick.
Secondly, my online album only allows like 100mb or something so I have created and used multiple accounts. Cheap I know, but I didnt have time to set up a pro account...get over it. Now I will be uploading to all of them as my limits permit. All the links will be posted so you will just have to check them all...I know, I know.

Janelle

Tuesday, March 13, 2007

Baby Fader

This is only trip related in that it is about what we are missing by not being back home.

The thing is, that while for us, life is on hold, for the rest of you, life goes on. WAIT FOR US, WE ARE COMING HOME IN JUNE I PROMISE!!! We will be missing birthdays, and anniversaries, and we have already missed one big giant event.
We don't have a lot of details yet, but my lovely Adrienne Fader had a beautiful baby girl on Monday (?) Both Julia and I are a little teary that we missed this event, and give both of them our love. We will update everyone (even if you dont know her) when we have more details.

Congratulations kiddo. xoxoxoxoxoxoxoxo


Janelle and Julia

Monday, March 12, 2007

Would you like to fly like a bird?

I have a quick story for you all. Yesterday we were looking for a place to eat, and I suggested this one Uruguayan restaurant which was recommended by the Lonely Planet guide. We were checking out the menu and just as we were finalizing our decision to eat there, a kid walked out of the restaurant and began puking on the street. So that place was out. We kind of stood there and watched the kid for a bit, and while that was going on a man approached us...

Him: Would you like to fly like a bird?
Us: What?
Him: Would you like to fly like a bird or a butterfly in the sky?
Us: What?
Him: Are you afraid of nature?

He then began to tell his story of how he came from Quebec to Guatemala to experience the wonders of nature. In the middle of his tale, we noticed that one of the many stray dogs started to lap up the fresh pile of regurgitated food. Good for it, for scoring a meal? Well, when Janelle noticed that happening she loudly stated that we had to get out of there before she was sick. The mother overheard and interpreted Janelle´s comment as disgust for her child´s illness, and looked as though she was going to come over and throttle her. So we left the scene, and never did find out exactly what the Quebecer was trying to sell us.


Julia

I had some time...

Today we went to the nature reserve in panajachel. It was uphill the whole way there and there was a brief moment where I was pretty sure that I wasnt going to make, but I obviously did as I am sitting here writing you this blog entry. My legs better look fantastic when I get home and after my bites and bruises fade.
Wandering around this town which known for its extensive market you get used to saying no thanks when you are approached a bajillion times by vendors on the street, but when it is a child that is trying to sell you something it much harder for me to say no; and when those same children ask me for money or food my heart breaks a little more every time. I wish I could just buy them all a meal or give them all some money, but I cant and it just kills me to say no to them. I knew that this would be hard, but I never expected to feel this bad about it. I just want to hug them all and tell them it will be ok. I am hoping that I will get a little more immune to them as the days pass otherwise I will not make it. They make me want to cry. :(

Did I tell you guys about the spider I saw in Rio Dulce? It was in my bathroom stall and was easily the size of my palm. Big, brown, and hairy, and as I told Megan this morning it appears that the bigger they are the faster they run, and they will only get bigger from here. I did good though, yall would be proud. I did my business (quickly) and didnt pass out with fear once. My eyes may have welled up momentarily with tears but it was soon over. Also Rio Dulce had BIG rats, they are gross little buggers. Not the cute-ish ones you see at the pet store.

Also, it does indeed get cool at night. I sleep with my thermal shirt on (thanks Blake) and my hoodie, AND a wool blanket. I should have brought my warm pink hoodie, but I didnt think it would be that cold. Even though Matthew who clearly knows more about this than I do told me too. Meh, when do I ever listen?

We have turned somewhat into day people while we are here. We are in bed my 10pm at the latest and usually up at around 730pm when we dont have to set the alarm. No partying for us. Its nice though. There are some places where you really dont want to be wandering around at night, and we like to take full advantage of the day. My tan is coming along nicely.

I think that is all for now...I was bored. :)

ps - I hear Shakira ALL the bloody time. They love her here. Shakira overkill.

Janelle

Saturday, March 10, 2007

Link to photos

Lemme know if this works or not. I can't put a permanent link on the blog yet because I am inept.
Cass or Deon, your help is still required.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bellachimera/

From here, go to the Central america set. Feel free to comment there as well.

also, as I can't read Spanish, you will have to paste into your browser address field because I can't tell how to make it a real link.

I'm special. Enjoy!

To answer some comments

1 - Miss you guys too.

2 - Dad, I do not know where your socks are

3 - Blake, I took my charger, sorry kiddo. Don't know where yours is.

4 - Baby Fader is in our thoughts, and mami Fader too of course.

5 - Yes Michelle, we are in Guatemala, and heading to San Pedro in a few days where we will be for nights before moving on to El Salvador.

6 - Hmmm, I think that is it. Adios Amigos!
Hi guys, Mark here, trip is going awesome, natural beauty to this point has been mind blowing, from coral reefs, to waterfalls, to mountains and volcanoes, just awesome. Have met some cool people along the way, some brits and cdns who were down with hanging out and partying. Girls have not been misbehaving too much, although one of them had lost their bra one night, found the next morning on top of the bar, not sure how that happened, alcohol may have been involved. Good times so far, Guatemala has been cool and cheap. Lots of love out to everyone back home, hope your all doing well. Till next time, -Mark

The road to Panajachel

Ok so let me tell you a little story....

Yesterday we left our little jungle abode and our 2 new Canadian friends (shout out to Heather an Cailey!) in Rio Dulce to go to Panajachel where we are to chill for a few days before heading off to San Pedro...This is Guatemala by the way.
First we have to catch a bus to Guatemala city, this is fine although a long ride (6 hour bus ride) then we have to take a cab to another bus station where the bus there will supposedly take us to our destination. The buses there look like school/circus buses. They are brightly coloured and there is latin music blaring from inside the vehicle. A man takes our bags and tosses them on top of the bus and ties them down with rope. Sketchy but ok, the bags have to go somewhere. 5 minutes into the ride our bus is assualted with street vendors trying to sell us everything from watermelon and water, to gum and books. Then a cowboy preacher man comes on the bus and we all prayed. The seats were very roomy and I thought it was going to be a good time until my bladder announced to me that it really needed to go to the bathroom, and we clearly had another 3.5 hours of travel time left. The bus then stops to let on more passengers and we quickly realize that the roomy seats are actually supposed to seat 3 people not 2, which turned it from roomy to invasion of personal space. I have never been so close to Julia in my life.
the roads are bumpy and the driver doesnt appear to be aware of the speed limit, or the fact that driving into on coming traffic in order to pass, is not really a good idea. Our drive was so focused on speeding as fast as he could that there was a second man who's job appeared to be that of the horn man. Turns out that this man also had the job of climbing on top of the bus while in motion to check on our bags. That my friends is beyond sketchy. It moves right into stoopid and scary mode.
halfway into our ride my butt hurt, my bladder was at the point of exploding, I was thirsty and hungry and I had a slight burn on the left side of my face from sitting in the window seat. Joy.
We pull into Solola where we have to change buses again. Did anyone at any point bother telling us this? The answer is no. If it wasnt for the random German people on the bus who seemed to know how it all works we would have been stranded. We watched as they literally threw our bags from the roof of one bus to the other, amazed that they were even still there, and hoped onto the next circus bus to complete the last leg of our immediate journey. Finally, over 10 hours of bus travel and discomfort later we were in Panajachel, on Lake Atilan. Whew!

Janelle

Tuesday, March 6, 2007

a quick update

I am once again being pressured to contribute to this blog. With 6 minutes left of internet time, I{ll see what I can do. And in case this hasn{t been mentioned already, the Spanish keyboards are hard to use and I can{t get all of the characters to work.

First, to answer Andy{s question, yes, we have been to a seedier bar than the Jazz - it was simply called Discoteque, and was the only bar open in Orange Walk, which is why we went. Not that the neon lights from the street weren{t enough to draw us in. Our flip flops stuck to the floor, Janelle and I were asked by all 5 of the locals in the bar to dance, and the music was really crappy 90{s nu-metal type of stuff. On the way out, after drinking a beer as quickly as possible, we passed by a couple woman entering the bar who were arguing and trying to pick a fight. Rass!

We{ve seen some pretty awesome wildlife so far, including howler monkeys in the jungle surrounding the Mayan ruins of Lamanai. They{re kind of hard to describe. They didn{t howl as I expected them to, at all. They{re actually really ferocious sounding - kind of like a dog with bronchitis growling in a microphone with something covering it{s mouth to make it sound muffled. Make sense?

Time{s up.

Julia

Sunday, March 4, 2007

Welcome to Belize

We got to Corozal and I fell in love. It is a small town and you can hear reggae music in the streets. We ate amazing Belizean food, and stayed at this adorable Inn on the water. The roof of the inn is a giant patio with hammocks and chairs, and since we were the only ones in the hotel we didnt have to worry about being bugged by other people.

We met this man named Shey, who owns a barber shop/radio station/ tv repair place. He was very goodlooking until he took his hat off. He had this MC hammer flat top haircut. Sigh... he was wicked nice though, and very cool to hang out with. We only spent one night there, but I would have stayed longer if we could have.

Ok, so the next day we did this day trip in lamanai to see the mayan temple. Very cool. mark and I walked all the way to the top which is over 33 meters. From there you could see the entire jungle and the water, it was breathtaking. I have cuts all over my legs, and blisters on my feet because of it, but it was so worth it.

We stayed the night in Orange Walk, which was sketchy at best. We got a drink at this disco, and it was awful! Wet, sticky floors, there were only 4 people and they were making out, and fighting, and generally sleazy. The place had bottles everywhere and huge cobwebs in every corner. We high tailed it out of there as fast as we could. Yuck. It was hundred times worse than Jimmy Jazz. Our hotel was made of concrete and all the windows were barred. It kinda felt like prison, espcially when they gated the door at night. I do not recommend that town. nope.

Mark tried to update the blog himself, but his computer was being iffy so he gave up, and Julia is taking a ridiculous amount of time emailing.

Right now we are in Caye Caulker. It is stunningly beautiful here. A small island in Belize, no cars, clear water...you can walk the whole town in 20 minutes, or if you are really lazy you can rent a bike or a golf cart. Our cabana is on the water, and we have lizards under our stairs. They nod to us as we pass, and Julia and I often comment on how cute they are. We went snorkelling yesterday and I pet a shark and sting ray's. It was probably one of the coolest things I have ever done. We are spending two nights here in paradise before we move on, but I could spend eternity here without a doubt.

Hopefully pictures will be coming soon... ugh, I know. We are slackers.

Friday, March 2, 2007

Janelle, Call Contact Brenda asap

Hey Janelle, It's your bro. I hope your having a ton of fun and have'nt gotten into the payote yet, lol just kidding. Brenda needs you to get in touch with her as soon as possible. Wes left and she needs to talk to you to find out what to do. Please contact her as soon as possible.